Hey I'm Going to Riviera Maya Mexico

*Every once and a while I’ll get an e-mail from a friend, like hey I'm going to (Paris, Puerto Rico, NYC ect.) what do you recommend, so I think I'm going to try to turn these e-mails into some sort of organized list of suggestions/ideas for their trip...and yours too, so here is another installment.
 "HEY I'M GOING TO_____ SERIES"
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HEY I'M GOING TO RIVIERA MAYA MEXICO
Some things to know...
Riviera Maya is awesome...your vacay can be as laid back as beers at the beach, or as thrill seeking as "lets bike through the jungle, climb this pyramid then swim through these caves" . It's also going to be cheap to get there if you live in the mid west, east coast, or south east, AND the exchange rate is pretty rad.

Where to Stay-Cancun is not an option: Anywhere between Puerto Morelos and Tulum is however. You can go the all inclusive resort route, and there are a bunch to pick from, or you can just hop on Air B&B or even craigslist. I always stay in Puerto Morelos as it's slightly quieter than Playa del Carmen, and closer to the airport than Tulum. 

What to Do-first and foremost get a car, renting a car in Mexico is a bitch, the price never matches the website, there are all these extra insurance add on's, blah blah blah, but you don't really have a choice. Taxis are expensive and sure you may see the Playa Express but you'll also have to stand on the side of the highway waiting for one...in the heat... 

Driving here is just like driving in the states. So grab your car (make sure it's an automatic), pick up some cerveza+groceries, find your place, get your kini on and jump into the ocean. From here on out you've got alot of options.  Puerto Morelos is the best place to snorkel on the reef (Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, second largest barrier reef system in the world)

Tulum (ruins and beach) The ruins are impressive, and so is the electric turquoise beach in the background. Plan to get there early, at least before lunch time, hit the bathrooms before you enter. Bring a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen there is hardly any shade near the ruins or on the beach for that matter. Pack a lunch drinks everything because once you see that view and take the stairs down to the beach with the best waves ever you wont want to leave, but when you do take time to wander around the town. EL Camello Jr. In the pueblo has the most delicious ceviche, best fish tacos is Mateos along the beach road (plus 2x1 drinks-and they have a roof top bar) down the street from Mateos is Hotel Zamas you have to have a drink there at sunset it's amazing and right on the beach, lots of lanterns hanging from the trees

Coba it's about 2 hours from Puerto Morelos so get an early start, this is one of the few pyramids you can still climb, but a word of caution it's way steeper than it looks...hello panic attack.  I highly suggest renting a bike at the gate, it was super fun and I don't think I would have made it on foot to all of the sites. After you've conquered Coba I'd make a bee line to Playa del Carmen (or playacar as it's affectionately known) spend the rest of the day resting those tired calves (so many stairs on those pyramids) at the beach, then when the sun starts setting grab some dindin, and if it's your thing hit the clubs, or get some drinks at a swanky bar.

No matter where you go or what you do it's likely that you will pass signs for cenotes, or giant caves filled with fresh water.  Some are giant and cavernous, some are tiny and maze like but they are all creepy as hell and totally amazing at the same time. The best ones are going to be on the way to Valladolid (a cutie little colonial town about an hour and 45 from Puerto Morelos) We checked out X'keken (careful those stairs are slippery) Samula (Casey actually swam out to the tree roots, yikes) and speaking of Valladolid it's a good place to stop and explore if you are making the trek to Chichen Itza. There will also be cenotes near playacar and Tulum with signs just off the highway, I think Dos Ojos is one of the best in this area and there is a guided snorkel tour. If you're sticking closer to the coast then Gran Cenote is your best bet.

Chichén Itzá is probably one of the most famous sites in Mexico and on the weekend it can be PACKED, it's certainly something to see but I prefer the ruins at Coba, Tulum, or Ek Balam more, especially since in Coba and Ek balam you can still climb the pyramids for the most amazing views.

If you've seen and done it all in this area there's always the exciting option to skip town and go to Cuba for the weekend, most travel agencies have pretty cheap package deals to Cuba, and most of them will have you picking between Old Havana or the Resort towns on the ocean, CHOOSE HAVANA 

Eat Drink Be Merry- is it time to eat? In Puerto Morelos there is a quesadilla place that I never seem to have enough time to get to, this palce is #1 on my list for next time.  Above I mentioned the grocery store between the airport and Puerto M called Chedraui, this is the best place to stock up and it's attached to the mall with stores like Zara, Mango etc...  In Puerto M all the restaurants around the square are delicious, and there are some more stretching down Ave Javier Rojo Gomez, try the hurrachi, a giant flip flop shaped thick tortilla topped with lettuce beans veggies and cheese, or some amazing sea food at El Pelicano right on the Ocean and remember there is no such thing as bad Mexican in mexico. There is also a small market on the square but it's better to hit one of the mega groceries for better selection and cheaper prices.

Disclaimer...in Mexico the official language is SPANISH so please memorize the following:
Hola and say it every time you walk into a place, Gracias when you leave or you know...just to say thanks, and 
lo siento and no one will ever be rude to you
busco-I'm looking for
yo quería-I would like
cuánto cuesta- how much does it cost 

feliz viaje, have an awesome time!! 

Hey I'm Going To Guadalajara

*Every once in a while I'll get an e-mail from a friend, like hey I'm going to (Paris, Puerto Rico, NYC ect.) what do you recommend, so I think I'm going to try to turn these e-mails into some sort of organized list of suggestions/ideas for their trip...and yours too, so here's another installment in the...

 "HEY I'M GOING TO_____ SERIES"
________________________________________________________________________________
HEY I'M GOING TO GUADALAJARA
Some things to know...
Guadalajara is Mexico's second largest city. If you're thinking quaint and colonial there are areas that will exceed your expectations, but it's also a big, beautiful, modern, chic city. Their slogan is "Guadalajara es México", Guadalajara IS Mexico,  since it’s the birthplace of mariachis and tequila.  It’s also known as the city of eternal spring, with temps ranging from high 50s to high 80s so bring layers for those warm mornings, hot afternoons, and cold evenings.

Where to Stay-I highly recommend staying at Hotel Demetria, or Casa Fayette as these are the nicest hotels in Guadalajara and in a really hip swanky neighborhood.  Walking around this area, even at night, is super safe and I loved the mix of modern houses and traditional Mexican villas.

What to Do- First you should know that Uber and Taxis are the easiest and cheapest (ranging from $3-$8) way to get around. Driving in GDL is not for the faint of heart, so if you want to rent a car just know that parking is scarce and you better be an aggressive driver. The traffic is no joke.

While there are a few things you should visit, mostly I had an awesome time strolling around, popping into a café for a drink, people watching, checking out a boutique etc…

Plaza de Armas, and it’s cathedral (Catedral de Guadalajara) is the main plaza in Guadalajara. Most avenidas leading to this square have some great options for shopping and eating. El Palacio del Gobierno is also right on the plaza and houses some of the most famous Orozco murals. A few steps from here (12 min walk) will put you in front of the Hospicio Cabañas, which is a cultural center full of super interesting expositions and more Orozco murals, plus beautiful architecture, peaceful gardens and charming courtyards. Templo Expiatorio, is another impressive cathedral and totally different than Catedral de Guadalajara. And lastly you can't go to Guadalajara with out visiting the Mercado Libertad, (aka Mercado San Juan de Dios) thee largest market in all of Mexico. If you can't find what you're looking for here? it probably doesn't exist. I brought back leather sandals, a tortilla press, some jewelry, and an embroidered blouse.
Where to Eat- With all the sightseeing you'll probably want to make time for some luxuriously long lunches and dinners. Just know if you're the only people at the cafe at 1pm it's because Mexico sticks to a Spanish time frame. Lunch is 3-4pm and dinner is 8-9pm, so eat a hearty breakfast and pack snacks. Taco Fish La Paz was one of the best taco places we found, we also popped in to Café Benito as it's close to Plaza de las Armas. For dinner I highly recommend: Alcalde, La Tequilla, Lachata, and while I didn't get a chance to check it out everyone is going crazy for Hueso. If you're a foodie this is your chance to eat at some of the nicest restaurants for CHEAP actually everything is much cheaper than say in Tulum, or anywhere in Riviera Maya and with the falling exchange rate (this trip was 16.60 pesos to $1usd the best it's ever been) So if you're looking for a 4 course meal in a fancy spot for under $40 us?!?! Guadalajara will feel like you've died and gone to heaven.

Above I mentioned "cute and colonial" for that you need to head to Tlaquepaque –technically a suburb of GDL, until the city grew so large it surrounded it. This is an adorable area famous for Mexican artesanias like pottery, jewelry, baskets, Otomi embroidery, and other little handmade things. There's also a plethora of furniture and antique stores, if only I had a way to bring some some of those larger pieces! Starting at the Museo Regional de la Ceramica isn’t a bad idea.  For lunch order Cazuelas (a local cocktail of tequila, and citrus juices served in a ceramic bowl) maybe some tacos, or quesadillas, and check out a mariachi show at any of the restaurants at el Parián . For dinner head down the street to Casa Luna and ask for a seat in the beautiful courtyard. Don’t forget to pick up a bottle or 2 of some delicious tequila or mezcal from Nuestros Dulces.

...and there you have it. Remember that not as many folks speak English as in Cancun or D.F. so it's best to learn the following.

Hola and say it every time you walk into a place, Gracias when you leave or you know...just to say thanks, plus:
lo siento (I'm sorry)
busco-I'm looking for
yo quería-I would like
cuánto cuesta- how much does it cost 

donde esta- Where is

feliz viaje, have an awesome time!! 

farmacie française

A friend of mine is planning a trip to la france, and asked about the sacred french pharmacy.  My bestie and former Dijon resident compiled a list over on her blog with some really excellent suggestions (she also got me hooked on most of the above) and if you google french pharmacy products there are tons and tons of lists, this buzzfeed one is pretty great. BUT everyone is different, and everyone's skin is different, so I thought I'd put my own list out there. The next time I find myself walking under that big green cross into la farmacie this is what I'm picking up.
1. I still have half a pot of this sanoflore lip balm, and it's awesome. Totally on par with the much more expensive NUXE lip balm. Super hydrating and with a matte finish which makes it a rare find, and I love the floral scent.
2. I think just about everyone is hip to the huile prodigieuse crazy, and I'm on board for sure. Sure you can get it at target and amazon, but it's WAY WAY cheaper in france, even with the exchange rate. So stock up!
3. Roger et Gallet is like the french Bath & Body Works, (if Bath & Body Works didn't suck) their perfumes, body washes, and soaps are affordable, and the scents come out seasonally, on the next trip I'll stock up on cedrat, amande, and bois d'orange, my faves
4. Love this hand cream. so so much.
5. I've actually never tried  La Roche-Posay's Redermic, as the last time I was in france I didn't yet have wrinkles...but now I do, and it has a cult following...so imma try it out.
6. I'm also going to buy the biggest bottle of their Toleraine Ultra moisturizer, this stuff feels like pure luxury, and is SUPER soothing for my red blotchy skin.

NOLA packing

In just a few days Mr W. and I will be picking up and flying out to New Orleans for the first time to visit family and experience everything "the big easy" has to offer.  I have a list 5 miles long of bars, restaurants, cemeteries, flea markets/artist markets...maybe a few record stores.  

Here's what I'm packing, Temps will be anywhere from 60s in the evening to mid 80s which makes it hard to pack as light as I usually do. So bring on the layers

*Jeans..duh, maybe boyfriend, maybe distressed, NOLA seems like the perfect city to get away with that sort of thing *Tons of breezy minimalist tanks to keep me cool *a smallish crossbody bag, always a travel must * and most importantly flats and sandals as we have a lot of ground to cover and plan to walk until we drop. (just about all items can be found here)

Hey I'm Going to The Dominican Republic

*Every once in a while I'll get an e-mail from a friend, like hey I'm going to (Paris, Puerto Rico, NYC ect.) what do you recommend, so I think I'm going to try to turn these e-mails into some sort of organized list of suggestions/ideas for their trip...and yours too, so here is another installment in the...

"HEY I'M GOING TO_____ SERIES"

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HEY I'M GOING TO DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Some things to know...

I should probably check out Santo Domingo, Samana, or Puerto Plata (I’ve only heard that Punta Cana is the Cancun of DR so I’m good on that) before writing this as I’ve only ever been to Cabarete a tiny little town on the north side of the island just east of Puerto Plata. BUT I spent a whole week there so clearly I’m an expert on all things Dominican Republic, so let’s get started.

Where to Stay

Santo Dominigo, and in particular the Zona Colonial is next on my list, and the amount of time I’ve wasted trolling Air B&B looking at adorable apartment rentals with an ocean view is embarrassing. I’m sure you could pick any of those places and have the best vacay ever, but for our very first trip we chose Cabarete for the surfing…and since neither my husband nor I had ever even seen a surfboard in person we settled on Swell Surf Camp. You can read all the glowing reviews on their site, and on Facebook but I just have to add that staying here really made our trip a unique experience. Amazing communal, traditional, Dominican meals, surf instructors who felt like buddies, the best pool ever, and meeting guests from all over the world was so so fun.

What to Do

With a morning surf lesson, then breakfast, then an afternoon surf lesson, then dinner around 8 at the main table; it may sound like there isn’t enough time in the day to do much else…but we still felt like the days were never ending (in a good way) full of lounging around the pool with drinks, walking into town, shopping, and the most important…enjoying a never ending luxurious lunch on the beach.

Kite Beach is the main beach in Cabarete, and like the name suggests it’s one of the top beaches in the world for kite boarding. It’s incredibly entertaining to kill a few hours watching the pros get serious air, and the newbies lose their boards and control of their kites. It’s also great for swimming too but just head to the east end OR watch out.  Cabarete is a small completely walkable town (although if you like’ there are TONS of scooter taxis offering rides for just a few pesos) Everything seems to center around the beach, including the night life which gets started around 10 when tables are cleared to make room for DJs and dancing and of course the drinks just keep flowing…with sunrise surf sessions I can’t say I’m an expert in the nightlife.

Eat Drink and Be Merry

there are tons of options for eating lunch or dinner right on the beach, you can pretty much just start at one end and walk down looking at the menus and seeing the specials. Mojito Bar at happy hour (which seems to run from 10am-10pm) will get you 2 mojotos for about $4 usd, and the food is cheap and excellent, all fresh ingredients super vegetarian friendly and huge portions plus you can't beat the view.  You may also pass by Gorditos Fresh Mex and Yamazato Sosua which are both in the same strip mall off the main road and write them off as weird strip mall fast food, but that would be a huge mistake.  Gorditos has the most MOST delicious baja style mahi mahi fish tacos that I've ever eaten, and the sushi at Yamazato is pretty fantastic. Did I already say cheap? Seriously food and drinks in DR are cheap cheap cheap.

While most in the service industry speak English, the official language is SPANISH so please memorize the following: 
Hola and say it every time you walk into a place, Gracias when you leave or you know...just to say thanks, and lo siento and no one will ever be rude to you
busco-I'm looking for
yo quería-I would like
cuánto cuesta- how much does it cost 

and it might not be a bad idea to read up on Sanky Pankys
feliz viaje, have an awesome time!! 

12 Days until TULUM

We booked this trip over Thanksgiving, and it felt like it would never get here, BUT here we are, about to take off in just a few weeks.  I've blogged about this area before, but this will be the first time staying in Tulum, and I am SO excited.  The trick to making a long weekend trip feel relaxing instead of rushed and stressful is PACK NOTHING, seriously just a few bikinis (the white and navy polkadot one was on sale for $5 at H&M awhile back) a sun dress, maybe a cover up, some sunnies, and I'm looking forward to busting out my blush avarca wannabes. I also like to throw in a scent to wear the whole time...When I get back it always reminds me of my trip. I plan on shoving everything into a little carry on! While everyone's waiting for their luggage, I'll be half way to the beach!

Hey I'm Going to Detroit

*Every once in a while I'll get an e-mail from a friend, like hey I'm going to (Paris, Puerto Rico, NYC ect.) what do you recommend, so I think I'm going to try to turn these e-mails into some sort of organized list of suggestions/ideas for their trip...and yours too, so here is another installment in the...

"HEY I'M GOING TO_____ SERIES"

________________________________________________________________________________

HEY I'M GOING TO DETROIT

Some things to know...

Detroit is awesome...it has way more to offer than the doom and gloom that's on the news and while there are plenty of abandon houses, and swaths of dark creepy city, there are other areas that are experiencing a revival.

Where to Stay

There is an abundance of gorgeous brick lofts on Air B&B clustered around Midtown/Cass Corridor, and South West/Mexican Town that are pretty inexpensive (this is my favorite). There are also really posh hotels like Book Cadillac, or Motor City if you’re feeling fancy.

What to Do

If you want to shop check out: John King Books which is one of the most impressive rare and used book stores in the country.  If you’re an avid record collector then Detroit is your city and Hello Records is your spot.  I personally like shops like City Bird, and Nest for etsy esq handmade in Detroit items and while you’re there you can walk around the corner and get a pizza and beer at Motor City Brewing Works. If thrifting is more your style, I will say Michigan thrifts never disappoint.  An absolute must must MUST see is the Diego Rivera Court at the Detroit Institute of Art, The Motown Museum, The Heidelberg Project, the amazingly art deco Guardian Building, The Charles H. Wright Museum of African American History, the historic mansions in the Boston Edison neighborhood, and lastly, The Dequinder Cut, which like the Highline in NYC, and the Bloomingdale Trail in Chicago is a former railroad line which has been converted into a walking/biking path.

Eat Drink and Be Merry

So I already mentioned Motor City Brewing up there, but that's just the tip of the iceberg. I'm pleasantly surprised each time I visit Detroit to find more and more places opening.

For drinks you have some options.  If you're looking for something laid back try: UFO factory, The Lagar House, Bronx Bar...really there are no shortage of laid back dive-y bars. BUT If you need to toast something special or craft cocktails are more your thing then head to: Two James, or Sugar House.  The restaurants that are on my list are: Detroit Institute of Bagels the best (but maybe only?) bagel place in town (I can also count on running into friends Saturday or Sunday morning before my long haul back to Chicago, which is always a plus) Ottava Via a new Italian place with an excellent wine list, Speaking of wine there's City Winery, Slows of course if you're craving BBQ, Gold Cash Gold, if you don't mind a wait... as it's brand new, Johnny Noodle King, Katoi at two James has excellent Thai (some of these I still need to test it out, but friends who live in Detroit have nothing but good things to say). If you're craving Polish or Bangladeshi cuisine, take a little excursion to Hamtramck...and...finally, the Middle Eastern food is NOT to be missed seriously if you are just driving through this is the #1 thing I would suggest, so take that detour to Dearborn and get yourself a fatoosh salad, a mujadara sandwich, and probably a side of hummus/babaganoush/tabbouleh... maybe a beet/carrot/apple juice too.

Ready to Go

April in Dominican Republic was amazing and I hate to seem greedy, but... I caught myself looking at the Groupon Getaways today and checking Kayak for cheap flights. I'm ready to go somewhere! These 6 spots are at the top of my list and with the exception of Florence, I've never been, and Florence was a million years ago when I was a poor student, so it almost doesn't count.  In past years I was mainly about getting stamps in the ole passport, but now I'm finding more and more super amazing places in the states that I want to cross of my list.
Is there anywhere you're dying to go?

Vacay Recap

We had the best time in Cabarete Dominican Republic, where the breeze is divine and the rum is delicious (and has a slight vanilla taste)!  We decided to be a bit more adventurous on this Caribbean get away and try surfing. We stayed at Swell Surf Camp was the best place ever , I highly recommend it.  Surf lessons are bright and early, the courtyard is beautifully landscapped with a killer pool right in the middle and meals are communal. We met the most amazing people from all over the world. After a week of lessons I don't dare call myself a surfer, but I can stand up and steer, and it was soooo much fun, not to mention an awesome workout.
Where will we go next? Actually spring has finally sprung in Chicago, so I'm excited to be right here and enjoy the spring summer in the city. After the harsh winter, seeing Chicago in full bloom is a nice reminder why we choose to live here.

DR Here I Come

Airline baggage restrictions, and the fact that on some carriers you have to pay for carryons has forced me to pack light, and while it's a pain to edit edit edit, I like the challenge PLUS it's way less stress to travel with one small tote bag.  For our trip to the Dominican Republic I'm thinking: a couple bikinis, a pair of shorts, some breezy sun dresses, light flowy tops, sunnies, in addition to some strappy sandals, I'm bringing some more practical espadrilles, and the must have for any beach vacay is a head scarf.

ok that's about all that will fit, bon voyage!

The Real January Cure

Last weekend the Mr. and I escaped the snow and single digit temps of Chicago, and took a quick mini vacay to San Juan Puerto Rico. We flew in on a Friday and the second we stepped out of the airport we felt like it was already worth every penny. We stayed in a lil guest house in Ocean Park, 2 blocks from the beach, super cheap, super simple. Saturday we woke up early got breakfast at the famous Kasalta Bakery, grabbed snacks and magazines and hit the beach.  I love the beach in Ocean Park, the waves are SOOOO big, the water is a perfect 80 degrees, and if you are patient enough someone will come buy and sell you beer, alcapurias, empanadas, etc.

That first day at the beach we soaked up the sun like we'd never see it again...and got burnt. We found out when we got there that las fiestas de la calle were in full swing.  This weekend was San Sebastian (sanse for short), where from what we gather everyone just hangs out down town and drinks and there is music in every square, and some disorganized (or maybe drunk) marching bands leading impromptu parades through the streets, WE LOVED IT. it was so loud, crazy with so much energy flowing through the streets, so fun. 

We grabbed drinks when our feet needed a break and then set off to find the most delicious mofongo in San Juan (which is at El Jibarito). After that it was more rum drinks (I need to start drinking more rum punch) more delicious sea food, like Ceviche House in Isla Verde which was totally worth the walk through the not exactly safest area between Ocean Park and Isla Verde, and tons of beach time, since lets face it...the beach never gets old such great people watching between Condado and Isla Verde. We ran out of time and never made it snorkeling, but there are some rock formations towards San Juan that looked promising. NEXT TIME

Come Visit

Please click on Tour Chicago above (top right under my banner) to see what I've been working on.
I'll be adding places I love here and there,
but if you have a favorite I haven't added yet leave me a comment!

Winter Break

So yesterday was the first nice fall day, I should just enjoy it and be in fall mode, but I know "Winter is Coming" so I'm thinking ahead.  I really really want to go to Dominican Republic.  Its been on my mind ever since I saw an article about it in Budget Travel, and more recently since I've been reading tons from author Junot Diaz who details the crazy history of the island, as well as his own personal history of growing up there. I want to split my time between Santo Domingo, and the beaches, I have some research to do, but at least I've found the perfect Prada Retro sunnies to wear. Hope santa brings them

Hey I'm Going to Puerto Rico

*Every once in a while I'll get an e-mail from a friend, like hey I'm going to (Paris, Puerto Rico, NYC ect.) what do you recommend, so I think I'm going to try to turn these e-mails into some sort of organized list of suggestions/ideas for their trip...and yours too, so here is my second
 "HEY I'M GOING TO_____ SERIES"
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HEY I'M GOING TO PUERTO RICO
Some things to know...
Puerto Rico is awesome...especially in the winter when it's freezing cold in Chicago. It's also going to be cheap to get there if you live in the mid west, east coast, or south east, and you don't even need a passport, or to exchange money (if your American)

Where to Stay-for PR you have 3 choices: City Options stay in San Juan, tons of cute places on Air B&B for Old San Juan. Beach Options I've stayed in Ocean Park which is just outside of San Juan, and further down in Luquillo about 45 min by car from San Juan, or Fajardo which is about an hr. Whatever you chose the drive will be crazy beautiful down PR 1 the coastal HWY. I've also stayed in La Parguera on the SW side of the island.  Rain Forest Option El Yunque baby (el joon kay), I've never actually stayed in El Yunque or San Juan but I've visited and it seems like a decent choice. me? I'm always at the beach, either way, you can drive from 1 end of the island to the other in 2 hrs, so don't sweat it if you chose wrong.

What to Do-first and foremost get a car, rent one at the airport, taxis are expensive and sure you may see buses around San Juan but you'll also spend a few hrs waiting for one...in the heat... Driving in PR is just like driving in the states. So grab your car, pick up some cerveza, find your place, drop your bags, and if you're me jump into the ocean. Plan on spending 1 day in Old San Juan, walk to Plaza de Armas, visit all the little shops, don't miss El Castillo the 16th century citadel, and stop for a respado on the way (Caribbean slushy). Caficultura is the hip stop to grab a coffee, and Cafe Puerto Rico has the best mofongo (plaintain mound stuffed with veggies or seafood), and Ceviche House in Isla Verde is a new stop for the best Peruvian ceviche. The Design Sponge guide might help with more restaurants and shopping. When it's too hot to hit the pavement check out the Puerto Rican Art Museum it's big, air conditioned, has lovely art, and beautiful gardens! If you're staying in Ocean Park or passing through to get to Luquillo stop at Kasalta, the famous Spanish (Galician) cafe.

Heading to La Parguera- this could also be a day trip as it's only 2 hrs away and you'll drive through Ponce and the mountains. we planed on it just being a day, but loved it so we stayed the night.  La Paguera is where you can get a boat out to isla mata la gata I could see why it was called "kill the cat" because I for sure didn't see any cats. It really means nurse shark, but I didn't see any sharks either so don't freak out, just mangroves, fish, star fish, urchins, turquoise seas, coral etc.
If you spend 1 day in Old San Juan you should plan on another day for the rain forest, El Yunque is BEAUTIFUL there are hikes to waterfalls (or you can drive right up) and once your at the tippy top of the mountain, you can see all the way to the coast over the tree canopy. You could also head to the caves in Rio Camuy, they are crazy impressive (here's a video tour).While we're on the topic of nature there's some weird stuff happening in the water in PR it's called bio-luminescence like glowing plankton. and when the water is agitated after dark, it will glow, if you put your hands in and out of the water they will sparkle. Go to Fajardo to do one of the many bio-bay tours, where you'll kayak at sunset through mangroves to reach the bio bay, for real...it's crazy, disclaimer: you will have to kayak back through the mangroves in pitch black...just so you know.  I've never been to "the islands" Vieques or Culebra I've heard they're pretty sweet, and it's on my list for next time...

Eat Drink Be Merry- PR is all about Rum, Pina Coladas, mofongo, alcapurrias, the best sea food, PORK...seriously so much pork (my bother in law made us go to Lechonera Los Pinos all the way in Cayey since it was featured on Anthony Bourdain...as a vegetarian all I can say is that the drive was beautiful through the mountains) If you are staying in Luquillo well then you're in luck, the kioskos are where it's at (kiosko=puerto rican strip of vendor stalls) there are bars and restaurants of all kinds fancy, dive-y, posh, lesbiana, fried, vegetarian ect. Here is a whole blog post devoted to all things KIOSKO

Disclaimer...PR is an unincorporated territory of the US the official language is SPANISH so please memorize the following:
Hola and say it every time you walk into a place, Gracias when you leave or you know...just to say thanks, and lo siento and no one will ever be rude to you
busco-I'm looking for
yo quería-I would like
cuánto cuesta- how much does it cost

and because it's the ocean just to be safe: medusas-jelly fish, tiburón-shark, piratas-pirates
 *these are bonus.

feliz viaje, have an awesome time!! 

Hey-I'm going to Paris

*Every once in a while I'll get an e-mail from a friend, like hey I'm going to (Paris, Puerto Rico, NYC ect.) what do you recommend, so I think I'm going to try to turn these e-mails into some sort of organized list of suggestions/ideas for their trip...and yours too, so here is my first 
 "HEY I'M GOING TO_____ SERIES"
________________________________________________________________________________
HEY I'M GOING TO PARIS
Some things to know...
Coming from the airport you can get the train in and it's only like 6 euro (way better than some other cities like London where it's crazy expensive), most likely it will dump you at Chatalet Les Halles, which is the busiest most ghetto stop ever, watch your purse luggage wallet, everything...seriously
This is also where people experience Paris Syndrome, you wont faint, but even Mr. W was like,
"for real...this is Paris?"...it's nar nar, but guys it only goes up from here.

Where to Stay-Anywhere you stay is cool as long as its in the city (this blog) will explain the differences in the arrondissements, (again last time Dianne and I stayed in Le Marais $$$, before that Casey and I stayed in the 17eme $$$$$$ crazy posh off the Champs Elysees and a few min from the Arc de Troimphe, but when I was a student I stayed in Montparnasse $...more affordable)

What to Do- Get yourself a Carte Musee, it's cheaper, and with it you get to cut the line and walk right in the museums,  I usually get the 2 day and knock all the Museums out, it's insane but doable
Day 1 Musee D'orsay for all the impressionist stuff don't forget to go up the clock for a view of the seine, Then the Louvre, make a list of what you want to see it's massive (but you can see all the major pieces in 1-2 hrs) then do the Arc de triomphe near sunset, once you're on top wait for all the lights to come on and for the Eiffel Tower to start sparkling.
Day 2 Notre Dame & la Sainte Chapelle are right by each other, they are also total opposites so it's fun to do them back to back, then head to Pompidou after for modern art
If you can squeeze Musee Rodin in somewhere, cool, if not it's pretty cheap and usually no lines if you can't tackle it with your carte musee.
If you wanted to do Versailles it's a day trip, so keep that in mind, (the hamlet is the best part)

I'm not sure how long you're in Paris, but maybe you don't want to do any museums (last time Dianne and I just went to le Hôtel de Ville because there was a free exhibit on Haute Couture, but that's it)

We just wanted to chill, so we walked around ate ice cream & macaroons (pierre herme is better than laduree) got ice cream (luxembourg gardens east entrance by the RER stop has the best ice cream tons of crazy flavors like violet-the best, and jasmin or lavender) or a picnic at the tip of Ile de la cite. We got all googlie eyed at the designer stuff at Galeries Layfayette, +the amazing glass dome, right by the Opera house-Phantom of the Opera that is, and super secret, if you go to the top floor of galeries layfayette there is an observation deck and AWESOME views of Paris.

If you want to do a Bateaux Mouches (the touristy seine boats) there aint no shame, I could tell that Mr. W kinda wanted to, so we went, and I was NOT disappointed, it's only like $12 and if the tour dude is annoying you can always step outside, Paris from the river is beautiful, you can really see the architecture better, and people watching on the seine is awesome. you pick them up down on the river by the Eiffel Tower. we took a sun setty one and by the time we got back it was dark, and by the time we walked up to Trocadero and got a crepe the Eiffel Tower started sparkling.

...so I've mentioned this glittering tower like 5 times already...it's so cheesy and touristy, but still every time I see, I'm all "squeeeeeeeee"

Eat Drink Be Merry- dang this is getting long and it's prolly WAY more than you ever wanted, but lets talk cafes how much it costs depends on where you sit, terrace $$$, inside $$, at the bar $ also lots of places have 1/2 off happy hr (seriously Europeans are more obsessed with happy hr than Americans) so if you want to sit at a cafe and do some people watching maybe just get a coffee, if ya want to eat, go inside.
Falafal- is super good, everyone says King falafal in le marais is the best, and there will be a long line, but all the surrounding places will be just as good (there are like 4) I think every time I go to Paris, I live mainly on street food crepes, falafal, sandwiches, pastries, etc. because well? it's expensive as hell and usually there's so much you want to do you don't really want to kill 2 hrs in a restaurant, it's better to grab something and eat on the way or find a parc between point A and B. also...I should say if you order a martini it's not going to be a martini, they'll ask you red or white and it's going to be this, just FYI
When you go to Sacre Coeur in Montmartre, stop and get a drink at la fourmi, next to la cigalle, super cheap, super cool.

and above all, learn Bonjour and say it every time you walk into a place, Merci when you leave or you know...just to say thanks, and Pardon and no one will ever be rude to you (unless they're jerks, in which case they're jerks to everyone not just tourists)

je cherche-I'm looking for
je voudrais-I would like

je suis completement perdu- I'm totally lost

*these are bonus.

Bon Vacances, have an awesome time!!
If you would like a guide that consists of more than a giant run on sentence please check out A Beautiful Journey

Weekend Getaway

Myself and 10 friends made the 7.5 hr drive alllllll the way past Lousiville, past Lexington to Lake Cumberland KY and rented a house boat (floating hotel) for the weekend.  I don't think anyone ever got over how beautiful it was, and even with so many other vacationers on the lake with all the inlets and coves we really felt like the only people out there. We drank, swam and ate...we ate so good with each person dividing up meals it felt gourmet every night! Gazpacho, jalapeno popper burgers, tabbouleh salad, fancy tacos, gallo pinto... jeeze
En route back home we made a quick stop at Buffalo Trace I wish we had time to do the whole bourbon trail, maybe next time.
How was your weekend?

What I Love About NYC

We're back from the big apple, and this time we had the most fun ever. We were in town for a good friends wedding with 8 of our closest friends from MI.

We've grown up with this group who now are a bit spread out from Detroit, to NYC to Chicago, and all the way to Cali so it was so sweet to explore the city (we haven't been in 7 or 8 years), reconnect with old friends, get all dressed up and most importantly celebrate the union of a super awesome couple.

On previous trips to NYC we've stayed in Brooklyn and the West Village, this time we ventured north and found a place in  Harlem.

The 7 of us who stayed there fell in love, so here is my list of what I love about NYC especially Harlem.

Lenox Coffee- I think we stopped here almost every day for delicious coffee and quiche.  A place like this is a dime a dozen in Chicago, but in Harlem it's the only one so don't miss it.

Uptown Veg-Vegan soul food, and juice bar. Buffet style and pay by the pound. Don't miss the roasted pumpkin, greens, or plantains...actually take a little of everything you wont be disappointed. It's nice to have a healthy soul food option, but if you absolutely can't live with out shrimp and grits head to Jacobs
or any of the other joints around, seriously just type soul food into yelp for Harlem and the options are endless.



Brownstones- rows and rows of the iconic Harlem brown stones on tree lined streets with neighbors casually hanging on the stoop. I have to say that one of these bad boys fully renovated is my dream home. Our home in Chicago has a porch, which we never use. A stoop is totally different, it's big and inviting, and along a busy street, it's just as lovely as people watching at a cafe.

We were lucky enough to find a few on air B&B and we rented a garden apt on 132, and friends rented a 3rd floor on 131. So we were lucky enough to see inside, and if you want more, check out HARLEM+BESPOKE blog for listings with interior pics.

Harlem doesn't have as much going on as some of the other boroughs, but it's the general vibe and feel that really sold us.  It's open, accepting, friendly, laid back, slower  

Emporio- This was Casey's dinner pick, and I was totally surprised. It doesn't look like much from the front, but past the kitchen opens up into this lovely dining area, and that glass ceiling is amazing! There is only 1 Rosé on the menu and it was the most delicious thing ever, so order that plus pasta with squash and lobster and a little candle at your table, it's totally Italian, totally adorable and totally hip.

YN Nolita- just 2 doors down from Emporio is a cozy little wine bar. Perfect if you're waiting for a table, or after dinner.  Good wine, good music, super friendly bartender and candle light.

My last 2 pics are in Nolita (or North of Little Italy, for those of us totally confused by all the little neighborhoods in NYC)

more soon on the wedding!
The venue was so beautiful, so chic.

New York New York

 

Headed to NYC this weekend for a wedding, and of course it's supposed to rain the whole time!!! We'll be flying Spirit again so there are some major baggage limitations, the Mr. and I are just planning on packing light and bringing a purse/backpack.  Not even a carry on! Just a personal item. it's totally doable, you always need way way less than you think, for 2.5 weeks in Europe I packed a small carry on suitcase, and had a purse.

So I'm bringing: black shorts from zara (technically I think its a scort?), a leather tote... everything's fitting in here y'all...which will double as my purse when we get there, sunnies duh, a hat (I'm blond and my head burns, boo), tons of jewelry/scarvs makes each outfit look fresh but takes up NO room, jean shorts, a few cute tops, and plain tanks which roll up so tiny, and good walking sandals, plus a dress for the wedding/heels and all that.

Think I can fit it all?

Thrift Haul

Dang the past few months have been good in the thrifting dept. I'm pretty excited about that hat! I've already started looking up trips to wear it on.

I'm thinking Zanzibar the "Spice Island"...Whats not to love: safari, beaches, Masai, remote, colorful, markets, beads, spices, palaces from the sultans of Oman. Here's a one week itinerary, which could easily turn into 2 if you add "laying on the beach" every other day.

Lets Take a Trip

a few years ago my bestie met a Spaniard and they settled down in his home town in Spain, and she started the blog Jamonlandia, all about living abroad in España.

Then the economic crisis hit Spain pretty hard and they were offered an opportunity to move to France, and Dianne started Au soleil, sous la pluie detailing life in Dijon France.

Well...Dianne is still in France, but after living in The States, Mexico, Spain (first in Sevilla, then Santiago de Compostela) and now in France, and who knows where next
(although I'm really rooting for Chicago) she decided to start a blog that would pool all of her travel/culinary/style/shopping/lex pat experiences in one place.

After spending 2 weeks traveling through Europe with her and hearing all of her blog post ideas, I couldn't have been more excited for her to launch A BEAUTIFUL JOURNEY